Ge dryer where is the heating element

Before you can reach the switch, push the small metal panel covering it down. With the metal panel out of the way, pull the door switch wire harness apart. Now you can remove the front panel from the dryer. To make this process easier, unthread the two screws that hold the side panels and the blower housing together. Once the screws are out, the side panels should flex a bit more, which will provide you with more room to slide the drum out.

Before you can remove the drum, reach under it and take the drive belt off the idler pulley and the drive motor pulley. Then, stand up and grab hold of the drive belt and use it to guide the drum out of the dryer cabinet. With the dryer drum removed, you can see the heating element assembly on the back wall of your appliance. To remove the fuse and thermostats, use a Phillips screwdriver to unthread the screws securing the parts to the heating assembly.

You do not need to disconnect the wires from the fuse and thermostats. Instead, allow them to hang while you remove and replace the heating element. Locate the wires near the bottom of the element, and snap a photo of them to make sure you know which wire belongs to which terminal during reassembly. Now that the wires are no longer attached to the element, you can start unthreading the screws holding the heating element assembly to the back of the dryer cabinet.

After you have removed the final screw, lift the assembly off the rear wall and out of your dryer. Grab your new heating element assembly, and align it with the screw holes on the back wall of your dryer.

Before you start to secure the part, make sure the wire terminals on the assembly are located at the bottom of the component. After the heating element assembly is lined up correctly, secure it to the dryer wall with the screws you took out previously. Take a look at the picture you took earlier to remind yourself of the proper wire connections.

Then, reconnect the wires to their terminals. After the heating element wires are secure, reattach the thermal fuse and the thermostats to the lip of the assembly. With the new heating element assembly installed, you can begin reassembling your dryer. To do so, retrieve the dryer drum and carefully place it back inside the dryer cabinet. Make sure the shaft of the drum is inserted into the small opening in the center of the heating element assembly.

Use the belt to lift the back-end of the dryer and grab the front lip with your fingers and slide the drum straight out towards the front. Here you can see me supporting the back-end of the drum:. While you have your vacuum torn apart you ought to vacuum out the inside of the dryer. There was some lint that had built up around the edges of our dryer:.

There are 9 connectors as shown below that will need to be disconnected. They are all similar type connectors and can be difficult to pull off. I used a pliers to grip the connector and carefully pulled them off. Do not pull by the wires!

Also, I would recommend that you do not touch the heating elements. The oil from your skin can get on them and prematurely cause them to burn out and break. Close-up of 1, the lower right heating element connector with a single purple wire running to it:. You will want to make sure the black wire goes on the left terminal and the orange wire goes on the right terminal of the safety thermostat.

If you know you are replacing it go ahead and remove it. If you want to troubleshoot it in place you can. I was removing it for another reason so I will show the steps for removing it…. There are 4 Phillips head screws that hold the heating element assembly in place.

For your info, the complete heating element assembly is GE part we11m23 , and the elements only are GE Part number we11x With the heating element assembly removed you will be able to easily troubleshoot the element and all the components mounted on the assembly. To check for a bad element put your multimeter on the element between the following points and check to see if they are an open circuit infinite ohms resistance :. Orient the heating element so that the notch is at the bottom as seen below, reinstall the 4 mounting screws, and connect the nine wiring connectors as shown below.

If you wanted to change the belt now would be the time to get the new belt out. I went ahead and replaced the belt while I was doing all this and below is the old and new belt together. The new belt will be shorter since the old belt has stretched out:. Slip the drum through the belt, ribbed side toward the drum, and align the belt on the groove closest to the back of the drum you will be able to see wear on the drum to indicate the right place :.

Supporting the back-end of the drum with the belt, slide the drum into the dryer body. You will need to pry out the sides of the dryer to get the drum to fit between them. It takes some patience to align the drum up with the retainer bearing so the bearing fits in its place. Locate the thermal fuse. You will be able to find it on the blower housing or at the heat source on your dryer check your manual if need be.

If the test shows that the fuse has continuity, then it is working fine and not the cause of the problem. However, if the test shows no continuity, this means it has most likely overheated and blown, so will need to be replaced.

If you do replace the fuse, make sure that you also clean out the exhaust vent to stop the problem from happening again. Incoming Power Problem If your GE dryer is not heating, then it could be caused by a problem with your incoming power.

To test if this is the case: Locate the fuse box in your house. Check the fuses or circuit breakers to see if they have tripped. You can also use a multimeter to check the voltage.

If you find a problem with the fuses or circuit breakers, they will need to be fixed. Once fixed, turn your dryer back on and see if the problem has been fixed. If not, move on to checking the next component. Gas Valve Solenoid The next cause to investigate is a faulty gas valve solenoid. To check them: Make sure the dryer is still turned off. Locate the gas valve solenoids.

To check if they are defective, you need to see if the igniter glows and then goes out without the gas igniting. If this is the case, this means the solenoid is faulty, and you need to replace the whole set of them.

Igniter If the gas solenoids are working correctly, the next component to inspect is the igniter. To check if the igniter has burned out you need to: Make sure the power is still turned off. Locate the igniter and then use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the test shows no continuity, you need to replace the igniter. If it does have continuity, then it is working correctly.

Flame Sensor Next up is the flame sensor. To check it, you need to: Make sure the power is still turned off. Locate the flame sensor and then use a multimeter to test it for continuity at room temperature.

If the test shows no continuity, replace the flame sensor. Heating Element If the flame sensor passes the multimeter test, you should next test the heating element to see if it is faulty. To do that: Make sure the power is still turned off. Find the heating element and then use a multimeter to test it for continuity.